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Nautical Nellies

Though Nautical Nellies markets itself as a seafood restaurant, I think they're selling themselves short. Yes, they have oysters galore, and everything from escargot to eel and tuna to lobster tail. But they also have much, much more. I was surprised, albeit pleasantly, to see only one seafood dish on the $25 Dine Around menu. It's not that I don't like seafood (I am dining at a place called Nautical Nellies after all), but that they're taking the opportunity to show the public, who might be trying the restaurant for the first time, that they're about more than just aquatics. Smart move. These people ‘get' the benefit of exposing themselves to the local Dine Around Audience.

So while the menu doesn't scream seafood, the atmosphere is arty Poseidon's Adventure. Numerous art pieces, many oceanic themed, fill the corner restaurant on downtown's Wharf St . When we arrived most of the tables in our section were already filled with a mix of tourists and Dine Arounders. We settled in to our cozy booth and enjoyed the antics of the numerous colourful fish in the aquarium while waiting for our appies. I chose the Mixed Green Salad – a colourful presentation, lightly dressed with apple caraway vinaigrette and topped with slivered apple. My dinner guest chose the ‘Mac and Cheese' – a small gratin rich with smoked applewood cheddar and sun dried tomatoes. Mine was light, his was heavy, but both were a welcoming intro to the comforting cooking of Nautical Nellies.

For our mains, my guest chose the lone seafood dish on the menu – Black Tiger Prawns with lobster pernod cream. Ten large prawns arrived, mounded over spears of grilled asparagus and a sweet potato tian. A generous quantity of food, with the salty and sweet play of the meaty prawns against the honeyed potato tian a delicious delight. I ordered the Risotto Duo – two triangular heaps of colourful risotto arrived on a long white plate – presentation obviously taken into careful consideration. My crimson-hued roasted beet root and goat's cheese risotto, topped with candied walnuts and wilted rapini was loaded with the tangy cheese – almost overwhelmingly so. The wild mushroom, herb and lemon oil risotto was much milder, but no less creamy and flavourful.

It took a good 20 minutes or so for our server to reappear after we finished our mains, so we had time to thoroughly debate who was getting which dessert course. In the end, we put both plates in the middle of the table and dove in. Though the Bourbon and Sundried Cranberry Bread Pudding rocked with the addition of silky vanilla & white chocolate crème anglaise, our favourite was the Warm Gingerbread – dark, spicy and rich, accompanied with apple compote, caramel and vanilla ice cream. I could order 3 courses of that one dish alone!

Kudos to Nautical Nellies for embracing the spirit of the Dine Around Event (they also offer a completely different $35 menu). And good to know you can bring your landlubbers and dessert-lovers here as well.

Bon Appetit – The Secret Diner

1001 Wharf Street, Victoria, 250-380-2260





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