After my quick trip to Sidney on Friday night to check out the new chef at Dock 503, I again found myself at restaurant with a brand new chef, this time deep in Oak Bay .
Known for his cooking at a number of quality restaurants around Victoria, award-winning chef Jeff Keenliside had been hired to refurbish the menu at the elegant, waterside Marina restaurant. I was anticipating a great meal. Keenliside's hand is immediately apparent in the Dine Around menu. Known for his slow meat braises and love of sablefish (aka Alaska Black Cod) both appeared on the $35 menu.
They say the acid test of a good kitchen is its soups. With soup there can be a wide range of quality running from obnoxious industrial liquids poured from giant cans; to bland—made from a powered soup base; to exquisite where high quality ingredients are prepared with skill and labour to produce an wonderful elixir.
At the Marina , Keenliside's alchemist's hand was at work in my first course Smoked Sablefish and Cauliflower Veloute. The first taste brought a wave of smoky flavours, (reminiscent of the bacon in a chowder but without the fattiness), then the cauliflower is revealed adding body and texture. Finally, the yang of refreshing lemon comes forth and all the flavours meld into one of the best soups I've had in awhile. My partner's excellent Grilled Pear and Endive Salad contained sweet nuggets of candied hazelnuts and had been tossed with a light creamy blue cheese dressing
For the main course, I opted for the Braised Short Rib while my guest chose the Grilled Wild Coho Salmon. Both were very fine indeed. Mine arrived in a large, squarish-shaped bowl piled high with a bed of buttery mashed potatoes, then a layer of tender leeks, then a six-ounce, rectangle of braised beef short rib— tender and falling of the bone (it came with a steak knife, which was defiantly not needed), then crowned with a single scallop. A concentrated stew of beef broth and mushrooms provided mopping liquid. The Grilled Wild Coho Salmon was a fresh and properly cooked filet accompanied by a lemon and mascarpone Israeli couscous. The plate was nearly licked clean it was so good.
Dessert from Brain Bradley, an award-winning pastry chef, was a moist and light ginger cake slathered with a thick, dark toffee sauce and accompanied by a small scoop of toffee ice cream. Ginger cakes and puddings have recently sprouted everywhere on menus across the city (the new Crème Brulee?) and Bradley's example is certainly one of the best. The other dessert, a Gianduja Pot de Crème wasn't quite as amazing although the small cup of rich hazelnut-flavoured chocolate custard was still top tier.
Both the suggested VQA Wine Pairings, Mission Hill Five Vineyards Cabernet Merlot and Chardonnay were good choices for the main courses. A nod goes to Paul for his on-the-ball and exemplary service.
When a new chef of the caliber of Jeff Keenliside is in stalled in a new kitchen, it's worth giving that restaurant a spin.
Bon Appetit – The Secret Diner
1327 Beach Drive, Victoria, 250-598-8555
