Are there people in Victoria who haven't been touched by the institution that is Spinnakers? Canada 's oldest brewpub, and a pioneer in the resurgence of craft-brewing, Spinnakers is highly regarded for the quality and amazing flavours of their handcrafted ales. But they are much more than just than their brews. Owner Paul Hadfield oversees the operation of the popular Gastro Brewpub, Guest Suites and boutique Spirit Merchants wine store (located in nearby Westside Village Mall). In addition to their beers, Spinnakers also bottles their own vinegars and spring mineral water and bakes an assortment of breads daily. Powerhouse.
We, however, are on site to sample Dine Around, and chose the $25 menu from the $15, $25 and $35 offerings. The wood and stone room was already filling up when we arrived, but we managed to snag a harbour view table for two, right by the burning fire, and within sight of the open kitchen. Spinnakers is a large advocate of buying local, organic and fresh – this is not your typical fish and chips pub fare. I started with the Organic Green Salad, lightly dressed with their house brewed artisan malt vinaigrette – very simple, clean and healthy flavours. My date went for a more adventuresome option – the Beef and Wild Mushroom Ravioli – and was rewarded with a sizable pillow of grain fed, organic Highland beef, atop braised greens and pureed squash and topped with fresh parmesan. Wow! Attractive and delish, this could easily be expanded for a satisfying entrée (and I note that it is indeed one of this week's dinner specials).
For tonight's main event though, we moved from beef to pork and chicken. My date had Pork Tenderloin, oven roasted along with accompanying root veg, creamy Yukon mash and chunky apple compote. The whole was topped with hazelnut and local, organic Blossoms Blue Cheese butter. Pork and apple are such a heaven-made pair, and their sweetness was complemented with the caramelized vegetables. I chose the Chicken Breast, stuffed with wild mushrooms and sitting atop spiced local squash and curried lentil mash. My dish too came with an apple side – in this case, a flaky apple chutney tart. The chicken was incredibly moist, and the earthy mushroom filling potent but not overwhelming. We tried both with the suggested 2003 VQA Hillside Estate Cabernet Franc, which had enough structure, spice and forward fruit to stand up to and complement both entrees.
Our dessert was off their regular menu – Napoleon Cinnamon Poached Pears, layered with espresso pastry cream aside buttery caramel sauce. I was surprised how amazingly well the coffee flavoured cream went with the cinnamon pear – I'm going to have to try and recreate this one at home. By this time the place was packed, so we figured it high time to give up our waterfront table to another lucky duce. We'll be back soon though – hard to stay away from all this.
Bon Appetit – The Secret Diner
308 Catherine Street, Victoria, 250-386-2739
