The reincarnation of Hugo’s brewpub in the Magnolia Hotel at the corner of Gordon and Courtenay Streets is swank and sexy. Dim lighting, teak tables and paper lanterns in the most gorgeous shapes highlight the clean, uncluttered interior. This is place to seduce a lover or impress a business associate. It’s also the place to sample up-scale Asian-fusion cuisine.
My partner and I popped in early on a Thursday evening and had a choice of several good tables. Once seated our server brought us tiny cups of fragrant green tea with hints of apricot. It was refreshing and delicious and, when we expressed this to our server, she promptly brought left a teapot of the lovely stuff with us.
Our $25 Dine Around meal gave us three choices of appetizers, mains and desserts. As starters I chose the Crisp Fried Yam and Spinach Bhaji and Bob settled on the Chop Chop salad. The salad, consisting of a chopped iceberg lettuce tossed with feta cheese, was light and well-seasoned. My three fritters were a creative blend of shredded yam, spinach and carrot accompanied by a tangy dipping sauce of tamarind and chutney. Both appetizers were delicious and beautifully presented.
Bob’s main course of chicken curry was accompanied by a bowl of white rice. Bite-sized pieces of chicken had been tossed in a gently spiced coconut cream, with hints of pineapple. We both though it a success. My Phad Thai, a staple of Thai cuisine, was disappointing. The generous sized helping consisted of rice stick noodles topped with raw been sprouts and four slices of tofu. The noodles were uninteresting and peanuts, a Phad Thai trademark, were missing. A few scallions relieved the monotony of the dish.
We were delighted with our dessert choices of Thai black rice pudding and apple cobbler. The pudding, served in a highball glass and topped with crème fraiche and sliced almonds, was a tony version of mom’s standard rice pudding. The slightly sour topping added a zing to the rice. Hints of cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, clove and allspice tarted up the apple cobbler that was topped with crème Chantilly.
The regular menu offers a substantial array of tapas and small plates that would pair well with Sanuk’s substantial sake list. While dinner here would be a highlight any day of the week, Sanuk is also the perfect place to pause with a friend, order a few appetizers and sip a sake or two.
—The Secret Diner
Sanuk Asian + Fusion
Ph: 250-920-4844
625 Courtney Street
Victoria, BC V8W 1B8
Website: www.sanukinfusion.com
