brio (bree-oh) n. Liveliness, spirit, vivacity. [Ital.]
This is one of the smartest, sexiest and chicest rooms in town. Goldenrod-hued walls lined with rotating artists, glowing auburn lighting, candlelit faces, swinging jazz riffs... And the staff, led by industry pros Greg and Silvia, are top tier. Brio is where I first found a well-made Victoria martini, and still my best bet for classic crème brulee.
Their popularity is evident in the fact that I have to book a number of days ahead for reservations and that, when I arrive 13 minutes after opening on a Thursday eve, the joint is jumping. Their M.O. is rustic Italian, with local West Coast flavour. Squisito! We selected the $25 menu, although the $35 menu was mighty tempting – we may just sneak back again before the promotion ends. Over a plate of warm crusty bread and martinis (I told you they were good) we perused their starters. The soup had me at “truffle oil”, which I am always hard-pressed to pass up. Usually disappointed by the teardrop allotment of this heady elixir, I was pleasantly surprised by the evident pungent and earthy complement to my creamy Turnip Soup. My dinner companion had the Hearts of Romaine Salad – a deconstructed Brio classic – with crisp romaine hearts, spicy garlic and lemon, topped with salty Parmesan.
Palates whetted, martini kicking in, we tucked into our mains. I selected the vegetarian Mushroom Ragout over polenta. Velveteen creamy polenta was the perfect bed for the melt-in-your-mouth wild mushroom ragout – silky and rich with red wine and thyme. I chose the earthy Nk’Mip Pinot Noir to accompany. My partner was all over the Bolito Misto – tender boiled assorted meats (here spoon-tender sausage, beef and pork) in a flavourful broth with spring root vegetables. The Sumac Ridge Cabernet Merlot was an apt accompaniment for the dish.
By this time every table in the room was full with diners – all gloriously full of brio – figuratively and literally. We split the two dessert options – a Dark Chocolate and Pear Bread Pudding and the Crispy Apple Tart with Vanilla Gelato. They were perfect examples of what dessert should be – neither was overly sweet, both were manageable size, each clearly and cleanly tasted of their respective flavours – and our plates were nearly licked clean.
Celebrating their 10th year in business this year, Brio is still one of the tastiest, safest and most vibrant rooms in town. Visit now and often. And thank your lucky stars that Greg and Silvia are here to stay.
—Bon Appetit – The Secret Diner
944 Fort Street, Victoria, 250 383-0009
