Topo’s is housed in one of the most beautiful and dramatic rooms in the city. It is also one of the most jinxed locations in Victoria.
Over the years there has been a long succession of restaurants trying to make a go of it at this Wharf St. location smack in the middle of tourist restaurant row. All have failed for one reason or another. One because the food was too high end, another because they were underfinanced, a recent failure because of an unreliable and dubious owner. The signs that Topo's may break the mold are good.
Upon arriving for our Dine Around dinners early last night we were greeted by an affable manager? Owner? (we never found out) who cheerfully led us down the sweeping Fred Astair-like staircase to a dining room sparkling with candlelight and warmed by centuries old 30-foot high stonewalls.
The room was quickly filling up – not with the young and trendy as you might expect in such a stylish downtown location—but with a cross section of older Victorians in two and fours settling in for a comfortable evening out. Victorians may remember Topos from a previous incarnation a number of years ago out on Douglas Street in a strip mall. These digs are infinitely grander – but seemingly just as popular.
The food is reliable American-Italian—hearty, filling and familiar. There were three choices for each of the threes courses in both the $25 and$ 35 menus. We went for the more carb-centric $25 menu with main courses of a vegetarian manicotti and a bacon infused spaghetti carbonara. Both were satisfying in a grandmotherly way. My appetizer was a mista salad with a creamy garlicky dressing, romaine lettuce and shavings of asiago cheese. The other appetizer was Brushetta – two large chunks of toasted bread topped with tomatoes, basil and garlic.
For desserts we had the crème brulée and the Bernard Callebaut chocolate mousse. Both arrived looking like the bride and groom leaving their wedding—the whole plate and dessert completely covered with scatterings of sprinkles. We liked the indulgent desserts of cream, butter and sugar united in classic combinations but will have to jog around Bastion Square an extra dozens times today to work off the aftereffects.
Throughout dinner we drank glasses of a good Italian pinot grigio while our server efficiently kept thing moving along. We could see the manger? Owner? Going from table to table – watching over his customers – and ensuring they had a great night out. Reliable, comforting and filling. The signs are good. We wish Topo’s well in making a go of it at this tricky location.
—The Secret Diner
(250) 383-1212
1218 Wharf Street
