Sanuk’s décor is a stylish mix of modern lines, plush leathers, lacquered woods and Asian touches – an infusion of East and West. Seated in a comfortable booth, the first surprise of the evening came when our server explained that the advertised VQA wine pairings were not available. My dining companion and I decided to try one of the restaurant’s featured wines for February, the Pinot Gris 2006 from Pentâge Winery in Penticton. This golden wine coats the glass and the mouth with a light, fruity flavour. It’s zesty and fresh, with a slight effervescence. The wine menu recommended it be paired with the Green Papaya Salad, and rightly so.
The lime, chilli and peanut dressing brought some much needed depth to the mildness of the crunchy shredded papaya, but this unusual salad still laboured under an excess of cilantro and a general monotony. The wine added the missing high notes and revived the spicy afterglow but it was not enough to redeem the salad. My companion’s creamy cod and rice soup was a better choice. Both the main ingredients were tender and well-balanced. It was well-seasoned with the perfect amount of citrus and green onion to round out the flavour.
We both chose the Sweet and Sour Pork and Pineapple Fried Rice and were delighted. The exceptionally tender, flavourful pork along with the fresh pineapple and crisp bean sprouts made a refreshingly authentic and subtle version of this often-bastardised classic. It was unexpectedly, though pleasantly, spicy and we particularly enjoyed being able to alter the flavour by trying different combinations of ingredients in each bite. Our only complaint was that some of the pork pieces were a little large and, though soft enough to break with a spoon or chopsticks, it would have been easier if knives had been provided.
The Warm Coconut and Kaffir Lime Rice Pudding was rich and delicately flavoured, a perfect foil for the zesty sweetness of the pineapple lychee chutney. It was a little grainy and stodgy though, and I made the mistake of mixing the fruity topping in with the pudding, blurring the tastes and resulting in it being a touch too sour. My companion picked the better option. Though a small portion, the Orange Ginger Brulee was smooth and subtly flavoured with a perfectly caramelised topping. Despite the description the only discernable ginger was the candied variety served on the side. It was also paired with a very unusual lemon shortbread cookie, studded with brightly coloured, chewy candies. The overall result, however, was delicious.
Our server, while friendly and attentive seemed inexperienced, foisting our entrée on us before either of us had even finished our starter, and leaving our dirty plates on the table long enough for the maître d' to notice and clear them himself.
Sanuk means, “Play. Deriving pleasure from. Having a good time.” and despite a few hiccups, we did. If you enjoy a relaxed dining experience and relish trying unique twists on familiar favourites, this is for you.
- The Secret Diner
T:(250) 920-4844, 625 Courtney St.
