brio (bree-oh) n. Liveliness, spirit, vivacity. [Ital.]
And man do these guys ever have it in spades! One of my favourite rooms in the city, Brio rarely, if ever, disappoints. Greg and Silvia are the consummate hosts always buzzing around, chatting up diners, decanting wines, making merry. The cozy, art-filled, crimson room was already busy when we arrived pre-6pm (!) on a Monday night (!!). Dine Around, Greg explains with a shrug. As if this place needed to be any busier. Soon after we were settled into a cozy booth, and a few minutes later, enjoying our fresh baked bread with one of the night's recommended VQA pairings Sumac Ridge Cabernet Merlot. The soft candlelight glow and auburn lanterns played with the laughter and jazz already filling the room.
I selected the Onion Soup to start, and my guest tucked into their Caesar Salad. Sounds pedestrian? Anything but! The soup was pureed, rich and creamy with leeks, and topped with a Gruyere capped croûte. The salad was crisp romaine hearts, redolent with spicy garlic, lemon and anchovy and topped with salty sheets of Parmesan. Chef Chris Dignan excels in skillfully merging unexpected flavours and textures. Our mains were another example of his golden touch. I selected a piping hot gratin of Shepherds Pie Brio style with duck confit, caramelized apples and chopped root veg. The sweet apples were heaven with the tender duck comfort food like you wish your mother made. My guest had the Smoked Cod Brandade 3 orbs of lightly breaded and sautéed fish cakes, over a saucy confit of fennel, spinach and olive. The smokey fish was accentuated and complemented with the anise/salty mixture of the confit an unforeseen but delightful flavour match.
Desserts are another highlight at Brio. One of the best Crème Brûlée going flecked with vanilla seeds it was the perfect ending for me. A white wine Poached Pear with candied almond slivers and crème fraîche was the icing on the cake for my guest. We ended with Venturi-Schulze Brandenburg #3 best enjoyed on its own before we headed off into that good night, filled-up with brio .
Bon Appetit The Secret Diner
944 Fort Street, Victoria, 250-383-0009
