Vista 18 - so named because the spacious, window-centric room is atop the 18 th floor of the Chateau Victoria Hotel , affording every diner amazing views of downtown, the Inner Harbour and the mountains beyond. When we arrived early on a Friday night, the bar was already full with martini sippers and most tables taken (Dine Around Law = Make Reservations). As we settled into our cozy booth and watched the setting sun bounce off the giant egg that is Save On Foods Centre, we were greeted by our friendly server bearing warm bread and tapenade. A martini or two later, we had made our decisions on the Dine Around menu – quite difficult as all the choices described were highly appealing.
To start we sampled the Roast Parsnip Bisque, flecked with pancetta and ground pumpkin seeds. Tender pear chips submerged in the thick soup were a perfect sweet partnering with the roasted parsnip. We also tried the Winter Spinach Salad – lightly dressed with sweet maple balsamic vinaigrette and topped with caramelized mango and Salt Spring Island goat cheese. The mango/spinach/maple combo was a surprising winner and both starters were soon just memories. Presentation is a strong point here at Vista – dishes are served on oversized white tableware of varying geometric shapes, highlighting the bright colours of Chef Corey Jessup's food.
Our entrees arrived shortly thereafter. The Sablefish was glazed with maple and was seated in a sea of miso corn broth and sided with apple-sweet potato hash. The maple didn't detract from the clean simplicity of the tender fish, but helped to accentuate the sweet briny flavour. We also tried Beef Two Ways – a pepper crusted sirloin alongside braised short ribs. Both were cooked to perfection, and we agreed that having the two preparations of meat a great contrast and comparison – the spoon tender ribs alongside the spicy, firmer steak. This was sided with truffle mashed potato (truffle makes all better) and root veg hash.
Both dishes were quite filling, so we were happy to see our chosen desserts were of a reasonable size. The Crème Brulee was richly pudding-like in texture under the satisfying crack of the crust, and flavoured with heady pumpkin pie, brandy and spice. Also satisfying was the Molten Chocolate Cake – a cute little muffin of dark chocolate, filled with caramelized apple chunks and topped with cinnamon ice cream.
By this time, the Pete Kingsford Trio was well into their jazz set, and it was time for us to give up our table in the starry night sky. I think I'll try breakfast next – and check out the sunrise vista here at Vista 18.
Bon Appetit – The Secret Diner
740 Burdett Avenue, Chateau Victoria Hotel, Victoria, 250-382-9258
